Tuesday, April 26, 2011

Una Adibinaza! (a riddle)

“A riddle,” Rosa proposed to her daughters and me as we stood around the woodburning stove watching the tortillas and eggs melt into one another. Lately, Dyana, the 7 year old, had been relentlessly asking me riddles as I embarrassingly struggled to solve them. Rosa continued with her adibinanza , stopping only a few times due to some uncontrollable laughter, “One day, Barbie walks into a room full of dwarves. Everyone stares at her. One of the dwarves takes a seat and pulls out a chair that looks shiney, deciding not to sit there since he thought it was wet. Barbie takes the chair and sits on it. When she attempts to arise, she realizes she’s stuck to the chair. The shineyness wasn’t water but glue. True or false? Odalys, do you think this happened?” “No.” “Ashley, do you think it happened?” “Yes.” “Dyana?” “No.” “And Meri?”

“YES,” I said nodding my head and laughing once I realized that the riddle happened to me the other day. This was Rosa’s thoughtful way of telling a funny and embarrassing story of one of our many school visits. Once it happened, I chastised myself for not having the forsight to examine my seat in a room that wreaked of glue. Since I only have one pair of jeans, my pants have a nice plastic-ass to them. Don’t worry, laundry day is coming up.

As I’ve continued to visit schools, kids have said a lot of funny things in addition to just STARING. Before I leave, I always try to ask the kids, “What are you going to do when you see me in the street?” Most of the time they say that they’ll greet me. Yesterday, a kid responded, “Bañarme!” That’s to say, “Bathe myself!” At least he was paying attention to what we were learning! I wish I could remember all of the funny things that the kids have said to me, but I’ll just have to settle for that one. Most of the kids today didn’t speak much Spanish but Kiche, one of the 21 indigenous languages spoken in Guatemala. The principal of the school helped me by translating for the kids.

Another day, another experience. So much to learn. Poco a poco.

Saturday, April 16, 2011

GRINGO!!!!

One thing that has happened to me several times and has continued to irk me is the loud shouting of “Gringo!” in my direction. This bothers me for several reasons: (1) why would you shout that at someone? Shouting names at people is always poor manners and is generally malicious; (2) it makes a distinction between the two parties, only working negatively to reinforce our differences; (3) if anything, it should be gringA (feminine). So what have I done in response?

“Chapin!”

Chapin means Guatemalan/Guatemalteco. When I respond by calling the person “Chapin,” it tends to confuse the yelling party since they had expected me to be passive and walk away. I then follow that by opening up a dialogue. “Hi, how are you? I’m Meri. What’s your name? Nice to meet you! I live here in San Andres Semetabaj too. Where do you go to school? I’ll be visiting you soon since my job is to work with all the schools. So next time you see me what are you going to say? Buen@s dias, tardes, noches Meri! Perfect! See you soon.” This has proven to be quite effective actually. It attacks the problem directly by holding the person accountable for their actions, humanizes me in the process instead of remaining some , and starts a relationship based on mutual respect. Today I passed a little boy who I met when he shouted gringo at me by the football field one day. This time he grinned widely shouting, “Meri! Meri!” What a cutie! It gives me hope that things don‘t always have to be that way. Now the next problem is tackling the men and their catcalls. That one’s a bit more complex.

Saturday, April 9, 2011

Favorite New Family

Though I have felt pretty comfortable overall, I miss the comfort and company that came with living in my old host family’s house. I’ve been satisfied just going into the Plasti-Centro to buy some plastic wear from Silvia and chat for a bit. But then, Rosa, a women who I work with in the superintendant’s (CTA) office, invited me over to her house the same day I had my language class. I sure didn’t have anything else going on! I walked through town toward the Pinchazo (where you get flat tires fixed) and was about to enter the shop, asking if they knew where Rosa lived when she came out and rescued me, laughing since I had wandered too far. Inside her house, she showed me the different rooms and introduced me to her three truly lovely daughters. Odalys is a mature, thoughtful 18 year old waiting to start her practicum; Ashley is an outgoing 10 year old; and Dyana is a precocious 7 year old. I had so much fun talking and joking with them that I tripped over my words more than usual, giddily trying to get my jokes out.

Just seeing how the girls interacted with each other and their mother was like being a guest their special world in which family bonds seemed impenetrable and sacred yet just being there gave insight. We had coffee and bread the first night and the Ashley and Dyana tried teaching me Kaqchikel. The following night, I translated Dyana’s storybook to English. The girls laughed and listened intently, attempting to follow the Spanish words as I switched languages. I ended up eating dinner with them that night as well, which was especially enjoyable since I’ve been eating alone.

I’ve returned each day since the first evening to play with the girls and talk with Rosa and Odalys. I brought some of my photos for the girls to look at since they showed me theirs the other day. Today Dyana, Ashley, and I also ended up playing a “game” of reading U.S. history-themed flashcards in Spanish. No idea where those came from though I did learn how to say checks and balances in Spanish! Actually, I have already forgotten. Great actvity in reading outloud and reviewing U.S. History I. I went to Pana the other day and bought all of the ingredients for chocolate chip cookies so I think I’m going to surprise everybody with them. First, by using their kitchen and second, by giving them all the cookies they could possibly desire.

Olympics and Kaqchikel!

I keep meaning to write more frequently, but I really hate how much time I waste on this evil machine known as a computer. The past two weeks have flown by, and they’ve actually been a lot of fun.

School was canceled so that all the kids could participate in a district-wide Olympics, which was based here. I had a meeting with all of the principals early on in the week and was able to present myself, my job, and my hopes for our working together. The meeting went quite well though I admit remembering very few of the many names and schools presented--all except one has a Kaqchikel name. Later on I built some plywood and cinder block shelves in order to make my house more of a home. I say built very loosely since it was more like stacking. A chore in itself since I had to take three trips back and forth from the store, which I’m sure was a site for all of the people who passed me huffing and puffing with a basket full of block.

By Wednesday I was ready to confront my nerves about going to the Olympic games--a series of 8-13 year olds playing basketball and soccer. What time were the games? Who would I sit with? Talk to? Would everyone look at me? Before I got to the games though, I sat in the park and befriended a huge group of kids who surrounded me, hungry for English words to hurl at one another in between fits of laughter. After spending some time getting to know them, I eventually went the gym to watch my first, second, and who knows how many games of intense pre-teen basketball. I ran into some teachers who I had briefly met before and befriended some of the kids and women around me. I really enjoyed watching the 12 year old girls play basketball--great hussel! The best part is listening to their mothers and teachers yell at them in Kaqchikel and Spanish while wearing their traditional traje (dress). It has me thinking about possibly joining the women’s league. Hm!

Another exciting first this week: Kaqchikel class. Though very few volunteers have fluency in any of the 21 mayan languages here in Guatemala, most recommend learning some key phrases and greetings. Though this was never one of my major goals, how could learning a language not be a fun, exciting, challenging, and rewarding experience? Geremias, my teacher, is also the principal/teacher at one of the schools I’ll be working at. For about two hours, that poor man had to listen to me make glottal noises accompanied by goofy grins. He kept emphasizing the importance of practicing around town since people will automatically open up to me more. I don’t think I realized the extent of it until I went for a stroll the next day. “Saqar nana. Saqar tata.” Good morning, Madam. Good morning, Sir. “Utz awach? Utz matiox.” How are you? Fine, thanks. I can’t even attempt describing the smiles, laughter, and genuine looks of surprise and interest I received. Women smiled broadly, turning their heads to follow where I was going while talking animatedly to their companion. My tortilla lady, Lidia, gave me a huge grin and told her boss that I was learning Kaqchikel. When she said responded with something beyond my limited vocabulary I just wrinkled my nose, giving what has to be a universal face of not understanding, and we all laughed together. My landlady was also pretty impressed and now speaks to me in Kaqchikel, even explaining some frases. I overheard her telling her daughter that I speak it. Well, that might be a bit of an overstatement, but the thought and effort are there. It’s really motivating to see how much it means to people when you speak their language. It’s also exciting since this is just the beginning!

Saturday, April 2, 2011

New Digs and Discoveries

I arrived at my site in San Andrés Semetabaj Monday night around 6 pm. Crystal, the volunteer who I’m replacing, greeted me and told me some basics about my new home. Since she had moved several times throughout her service in attempts to live with families, her last home was more of a make-do situation. It’s half of a little house with a plywood wall divider in a family compound (pictures below). A bit basic but hey, it’s Peace Corps!


The following two days, Crystal and her brother who was visiting, Jeff, showed me around town and introduced me to all of her friends, shopkeepers, and special places to get photocopies. As she was saying tearful goodbyes, I was presenting myself. It was intimidating yet comforting to see the strong bonds that Crystal had forged over the past two years. Unlike me, she had no one to introduce her or bequeath their basic belongings. In short, she’s saved me weeks of introductions and thousands of Quetzales by passing on her things.

On Thursday I met Crystal and Jeff in Panajachel, the tourist city on the lake. Crystal showed me the bank, the lake up-close, the market, and other possible necessities. We went to Crossroads, a coffee shop owned by an ex-pat, Mike. He treated us to delicious coffee and pastries free of charge. As he continued to refill our glasses, conversation spun from the education system in the U.S. to different ways of traveling the world. At one point when the caffeine was audibly buzzing all around us, Mike asked us if we wanted to see the secret room: UH YES. He moved a bookshelf only to uncover a hidden door, taking Jeff and me to his coffee roasting room. To paraphrase, the conversation went a bit like this: “Do you like to create? You know that feeling you get when you share what you‘ve created with other people? That’s the point of life! …Self-doubt is the most dangerous thing because it paralyzes you from action…Find like-minded people--not people doing the same thing, but a similar mentality and just go with it. Follow your inspiration.” Intense but awesome.

To revert back to the housing topic, in all fairness, I will not actually be staying in my initial abode though I really do like the family. The 16 year-old son is especially friendly and tries practicing his English with me. Instead, I’m moving to a house on the compound of another family, the director of one of the elementary school’s I’ll be working with. This house is a bit larger, has a yard, my own pila (large outdoor sink for washing dishes and clothes), and a bathroom that should have hot water when I get there (we’ll see!). I’ll also be paying them a bit extra so that I can share dinner and Sunday lunch with them. I’m especially excited about being able to start my own garden. Apparently avocado trees can grow within two years…!

Other interesting happenings/discoveries:
--Powered milk is pretty great.
--I bought a pressure cooker as an impulse buy in the street the other day. Beans for dinner!
--Riding in the back of a pick-up will be my main mode of transportation for the next two years (sorry Aunt Meg).
--I have great access to tempeh and tofu.
--There’s nothing like eating beans that you spent several hours making as you tried figuring out your pressure cooker.